Escape To South Beach

travel, architecture

A bit embarrassed to admit it since most of Chicago had to suffer through those snowy cold days, but we recently took off to points south to soak up some glorious sunshine.

Decided on the South Beach section of Miami Beach and booked an art deco apartment through florida sunbreak.com.  (They're hurried, but make clear exactly what you're looking for and hold your breath.)  We lucked out w/a one bdrm. condo, well-located and furnished in a cool way.

It is definitely weird here.  Since the days of Miami Vice this area has been up and down a few times.  Right now I'd say it's in between in a particularly interesting way. 

All kinds of people visit Miami Beach, esp. South Beach.  Rich and near rich, poor and near poor (many ride the 25 cent South Beach local bus where they're inclined to chat with strangers as if they're old friends.)  People from Latin America, Europe (particularly Italian and French) and the good old U.S.  Gays and straights;  young and old;  some very "out there" get-ups appear along the Lincoln Mall, but mostly it's this hearty stew  of absolutely everyone.  It's sometimes pretty hard to differentiate between locals and tourists and that's part of its' many charms.

Parking is ghastly here so unless you're addicted to valet style, I'd recommend walking and biking.  Latter is very doable for us.  I even managed 3 bags of groceries that way, 2 in basket, 1 dangling from my arm.  Last night we went to the opera in Miami by public bus, a scene in itself, especially in the evening.  A concert we attended there with Yo Yo Ma as soloist elicted rave reviews for same in this weekend's NYTimes.

Besides music in two newly built pavillions in downtown Miami we ate at tons of outdoor cafes and restaurants including a swell one on the patio of the Blue Door at the Delano Hotel.  The public spaces at the hotel are really marvelous, replete with intimate conversational spots and off-beat furniture meant to show wear and still look good.

We did succumb to lunch indoors at the Versailles, (see photo at left) a middle class Cuban hangout in Little Havana. The decor is from a time gone by, complete w/ lots of mirrors, waitstaff dressed in green and yellow to match the drapes and traditional Cuban cuisine such as roast pig (lechon) with plantains and rice and "oxtail with veal stew" and yucca w/onions.  When I told the headwaiter I needed a table for "dos" he corrected me, suggesting that only if I asked for a table for "two" would I get a menu in English.

A driving trip to the Everglades yielded viewings of a variety of large water fowl and several alligators, courtesy of our National Park Service guide.  My friend Sophia Sieczkowskiz and I couldn't pass up a large produce stand on the way back, "Robert Is Here" (305.246.1592) where we bought the best strawberries ever, those huge Florida avocadoes, scrumptious locally grown grapefruit, a yummy papaya, some key limes to flavor the former and a flavorless guava.

We took an incredibly informative tour of portions of the Art Deco district with Scott Timm, the director of programs and outreach at the Miami Design Preservation League.  The league, www.mdpl.org was originally organized in 1976 by Barbara Capitman.  Her dedication and zeal and that of others led to the preservation of a very large district, a miracle really, given the tendency to raze, develop and "modernize" so prevalent in that era.  The city, with some difficulty but eventually to its credit, was persuaded and the result is a real boon for architectural preservation and tourism as well.

It turned out that the regular tour guide for this non-profit's Art Deco Tour wasn't available that day so Scott subbed.  He's, by his own admission, passionate about this Miami Beach treasure trove and facile with explanations.  If you're interested in a tour I'd definitely call ahead and see if Scott might favor you with a tour.  After ours,  I looked at all the buildings we passed in a different, more informed light.

Almost forgot Jimbos.  (see photo of Jimbo denizens at right)  My son Daniel laughed and laughed about this place with a twinkle in his eye, knowing that his father and I will go pretty much anywhere.  He gave us good directions but warned it is tricky to find.  He recommended smoked marlin but when we got there they were all out and we were on our own.  Look for the wrecked school bus, Dan said.  Don't pay for parking, he added.  It's on the way to Key Biscayne.  Put these in Google: Jimbos, marlin, Miami, beer and you'll get directions.  You'll definitely be surprised on arrival.

Comments

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That was a fun adventure, looking forward to experience this myself! Keep on sharing!

Brian