Chicago tips

Escape To South Beach

travel, architecture

A bit embarrassed to admit it since most of Chicago had to suffer through those snowy cold days, but we recently took off to points south to soak up some glorious sunshine.

Decided on the South Beach section of Miami Beach and booked an art deco apartment through florida sunbreak.com.  (They're hurried, but make clear exactly what you're looking for and hold your breath.)  We lucked out w/a one bdrm. condo, well-located and furnished in a cool way.

It is definitely weird here.  Since the days of Miami Vice this area has been up and down a few times.  Right now I'd say it's in between in a particularly interesting way. 

All kinds of people visit Miami Beach, esp. South Beach.  Rich and near rich, poor and near poor (many ride the 25 cent South Beach local bus where they're inclined to chat with strangers as if they're old friends.)  People from Latin America, Europe (particularly Italian and French) and the good old U.S.  Gays and straights;  young and old;  some very "out there" get-ups appear along the Lincoln Mall, but mostly it's this hearty stew  of absolutely everyone.  It's sometimes pretty hard to differentiate between locals and tourists and that's part of its' many charms.

Parking is ghastly here so unless you're addicted to valet style, I'd recommend walking and biking.  Latter is very doable for us.  I even managed 3 bags of groceries that way, 2 in basket, 1 dangling from my arm.  Last night we went to the opera in Miami by public bus, a scene in itself, especially in the evening.  A concert we attended there with Yo Yo Ma as soloist elicted rave reviews for same in this weekend's NYTimes.

Besides music in two newly built pavillions in downtown Miami we ate at tons of outdoor cafes and restaurants including a swell one on the patio of the Blue Door at the Delano Hotel.  The public spaces at the hotel are really marvelous, replete with intimate conversational spots and off-beat furniture meant to show wear and still look good.

We did succumb to lunch indoors at the Versailles, (see photo at left) a middle class Cuban hangout in Little Havana. The decor is from a time gone by, complete w/ lots of mirrors, waitstaff dressed in green and yellow to match the drapes and traditional Cuban cuisine such as roast pig (lechon) with plantains and rice and "oxtail with veal stew" and yucca w/onions.  When I told the headwaiter I needed a table for "dos" he corrected me, suggesting that only if I asked for a table for "two" would I get a menu in English.

A driving trip to the Everglades yielded viewings of a variety of large water fowl and several alligators, courtesy of our National Park Service guide.  My friend Sophia Sieczkowskiz and I couldn't pass up a large produce stand on the way back, "Robert Is Here" (305.246.1592) where we bought the best strawberries ever, those huge Florida avocadoes, scrumptious locally grown grapefruit, a yummy papaya, some key limes to flavor the former and a flavorless guava.

We took an incredibly informative tour of portions of the Art Deco district with Scott Timm, the director of programs and outreach at the Miami Design Preservation League.  The league, www.mdpl.org was originally organized in 1976 by Barbara Capitman.  Her dedication and zeal and that of others led to the preservation of a very large district, a miracle really, given the tendency to raze, develop and "modernize" so prevalent in that era.  The city, with some difficulty but eventually to its credit, was persuaded and the result is a real boon for architectural preservation and tourism as well.

It turned out that the regular tour guide for this non-profit's Art Deco Tour wasn't available that day so Scott subbed.  He's, by his own admission, passionate about this Miami Beach treasure trove and facile with explanations.  If you're interested in a tour I'd definitely call ahead and see if Scott might favor you with a tour.  After ours,  I looked at all the buildings we passed in a different, more informed light.

Almost forgot Jimbos.  (see photo of Jimbo denizens at right)  My son Daniel laughed and laughed about this place with a twinkle in his eye, knowing that his father and I will go pretty much anywhere.  He gave us good directions but warned it is tricky to find.  He recommended smoked marlin but when we got there they were all out and we were on our own.  Look for the wrecked school bus, Dan said.  Don't pay for parking, he added.  It's on the way to Key Biscayne.  Put these in Google: Jimbos, marlin, Miami, beer and you'll get directions.  You'll definitely be surprised on arrival.

Learn To Knit Now. It's Free, Too!

current calendar, services

The city has risen to the occasion once more and is offering many creative ways to surmount the winter blahs.  They've come up with a program called The Stitching Salon (large sign in view), right across from the Cultural Center at 72 E. Randolph. 

I learned to knit many years ago from my grandmother, but my crochet lessons were aborted too soon.  I yearn to crochet something bizarre from metal wire but am stumped until I actually learn to crochet more than just a flat old piece.  I called the city for help and they urged me to stop by the "salon".  Chances are, they said, someone with expertise will be on site to demistify the crochet hook just for me.

Of course they teach knitting and other sewing arts as well.  It's akin to an old fashioned sewing bee resurrected for 21st Century life. 

You may be aware that knitting has become newly fashionable of late. Yarn stores have responded with an array of exotic yarns of all kinds.  Explore the workshop, "Knitting With The Experts" for both basic and advanced techniques.  New projects are offered weekly.  It's on Wednesdays from 6-8PM.

The Stitching Salon was initially scheduled to close at the end of February but it's been such a phenomenal success that it's been extended through March 31 says my friend Barbara Manning, a true fiber afficionado.

She and I attended opening day in January, a festive and lively affair.  Artists such as Pate (pron. Paddy) Conaway and Danny Mansmith held forth on their current and past projects.  Pate was encouraging a woman who was knitting plastic bag material with the aid of enormous knitting needles and Danny stood alongside an exhibit of his stitching projects which I though especially inventive.  He was wearing cut off jeans with long wide-legged fabric added.  When Barbara remarked on his garment,  he revealed he'd used the reverse side of faux snakeskin for the unusual effect.

The exhibit remains as a backdrop for salon activities.

Try this website www.winterdelights.com to access info on other activities of all kinds or call 312.744.2400 and ask for "Stitching Salon", specifically or whatever other field you're looking for.

The Stitching Salon, 72 E. Randolph.  Monday-Friday, 10AM-6PM;  Saturday, 9AM-5
PM;  Sunday, 10AM-6PM.

Skate, Skate, Skate In Millenium Park

current calendar, parks

Now I know why some skaters have weak ankles.  I used to be able to "shoot the duck" but alas no more.  Lack of practice has resulted in that unbecoming look common to new or former ice skaters.

There's plenty of time left to enjoy skating on the 16,000 square feet pond just inside Millenium Park beyond the intersection of Michigan Av. and Washington St., the locale of the McCormick Tribune Foundation's marvelous gift to the city.  The rink will be open through March 16, weather permitting.  Call 312.742.5222 to double check on conditions.  Hours are 10AM til 10PM unless a private event is scheduled, when the rink will close at 8PM.

Skating is absolutely free.  You may bring your own skates or rent them for $7.  Facilities include a warming enclosure, toilets and lockers.

Thanks to a state of the art cooling system, the ice remains solid enough for skating even if the weather is unseasonably warm.  I saw skaters enjoying themselves earlier in the winter when the thermometer was well above freezing.

Private events for 100-400 people may be scheduled for a fee of $1000.  You must provide  liability insurance.  Email emontano@westrecchicago for additional event info.

Seduced And Abandoned By The CTA

services, travel

For many, many years I have blithely taken the subway and the "L" from the Fullerton station.  Downtown to the loop via both the red and the brown lines;  the orange and blue lines (eventually) to Midway and O'Hare.  The system was pretty darned good.  Dumbly, I assumed it would always work.

There was indeed fair warning.  Construction was on the horizon to expand the brown line to accommodate the ever burgeoning population adjoining those tracks.  Two more cars were needed.  Fair enough I figured.

BUT, I didn't reckon on the horrific clout and dishonesty of the CTA as well as the very long term construction.  I have alternatives (I guess)  but what about those who don't?

A number of years ago there was a definite clue in the form of a fake democracy.  Community meetings were announced and held.  These proved to be nothing but a chance for people to think they had input but mainly it was to let the CTA tell us what they were going to do regardless of what anyone had to say.

The Fullerton station (the one I use most) was going to be expanded to a ridiculous length and breadth:  a whole block long and very wide, encroaching on land to the east since it was impossible to build further west.  That's because DePaul University had built a parking lot smack up against the existing tracks, despite an agreement they'd had with nearby residents to advise them of any such plans in advance.  This seemed an odd coincidence.  Is it relevant that Mayor Daley is a DePaul graduate?

Some architects and interested neighbors investigated and discovered that the proposed huge size of the project was not necessary to fulfill the need for handicapped accessibility, as claimed. They took some pains to show this to the CTA.  Then they were ignored.

Recently I heard on the radio that there was going to be full tilt construction of the Fullerton station beginning in April and that commuting time would be doubled to one hour from a half hour at that time and continuing on for an indeterminate time.  One hour to travel 24 blocks south??? The whole project is scheduled for completion in 2009!

Sneakily the construction already begun was wreaking havoc with commuting well in advance of the announced delays.  There were numerous "cracked tracks" somewhere along the route, and "electrical outages" necessitating delays, when such occurrences were almost non-existent previously.  Surprise, surprise!  Other mysterious problems, causing additional delays grew more frequent.

You can visit the CTA's website at www.transitchicago.com and find out some things.  Of course it's the CTA's PR program at work.  You can actually discover some existing changes and advance plans which I'll admit does help. Such as the fact that both the Montrose and Addison stations are currently closed and will be for some time.

I love the suggestion to "frequent local businesses" when they're engulfed in scaffolding and construction materials.  If those aren't business killers I don't know what is.  Solving such a dilemma is a real challenge.

So here's my question.  Why all the dishonesty?  Sure commuters were going to suffer, but why not be honest about what was going on and why not try to minimize the scope of the project when it was entirely doable?  Was there fear of an uprising, a revolt?  Why must the CTA be run like a fiefdom?

If anyone has some good answers, lots of people would like to hear them.

Lost Chicago Photos Reimerge

current calendar, books, photography

Richard Nickel's Chicago, Photographs Of A Lost City, a newly published book containing over 200 unknown photographs by the esteemed architectural photographer should make a perfect Valentine for someone you know (or yourself).

The authors, Richard Cahan and Michael Williams will be at the Cultural Center for a presentation on Thursday, February 15 at 12:15PM.  Books will be available for purchase and a book signing will follow.  If you need an advance copy you can find one at Prairie Avenue Bookshop, 418 S. Wabash, a fine resource, particularly for architectural books.

Although today Chicago is renowned for its' architecture and attracts many visitors as a result, it wasn't always that way.  During the 50's and 60's many inner city neighborhoods had become slums and many fine loop buildings were demolished in the name of progress.

Richard Nickel and others tried to call attention to this travesty;  Nickel began taking pictures while a student at the Institute of Design which became a center for the New Bauhaus.  There the Chicago photographer Harry Callahan became Nickel's teacher and mentor.  As a student he began a project to photograph architect Louis Sullivan's buildings.  Despite the efforts of Nickel and others, the Garrick Theater and the Chicago Stock Exchange, both fine examples of Sullivan's work were razed.

Tragically Nickel was killed while photographing the partially demolished Stock Exchange.  Perhaps this helped to focus public attention on the progressive devastation of the city.  Nickel's photographs are classic reminders of fine architecture.  Some are permanently displayed in the corridors of the Cultural Center.  The Richard Nickel Commitee and Photographic Archive www.richardnickelcommittee.org  is a non-profit devoted to preserving his work.

An Icy Valentine On Saturday

current calendar

Watch two professional ice carvers make valentine-related sculpture this Saturday, February 10 in Millenium Park.  The event will take place right in front of Anish Kapoor's "Cloud Gate" sculpture.  The weather should be bearable;  current forecast is a sunny day with a high of 16, a good deal better than our recent freezing blasts.

The ice sculptors, Jim Nadeau and Chris Koetke are both adept at carving.  One of them will be on hand between 10:30AM and 1:30PM the same day to fashion additional pieces.  They plan to carve small ice portraits of visitors as well.

Starbucks Coffee will offer complimentary samples of their hot chocolate during the Saturday carving and from 12noon til 1:30 on weekdays through Valentines Day.  Moonstruck Chocolate will have treats on hand too.

Just to get you in the mood, I've added an old valentine of mine, a 1930's era brooch.

Check Out Big City Menus Online

food and drink, travel

Wow, this site is a huge help!  It's menupages.com and from it you can peruse a current (we hope) menu of the place you're thinking about patronizing.  Cities to sleuth out are Chicago, New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Boston, Philadelphia and Washington, D.C.

It goes without saying that you can look up many, many restaurants by name here.

I suggest going to "how to use this site" in the upper right hand corner just to get acquainted.  Usually I go right to "Browse" on the top menu bar. 

There's a choice of an on screen menu and a printable one as well.

If you're in the mood for a very specific thing, there's even a "find a food" search listed by neighborhoods.

Additionally, you can request that they list the menu of a particular restaurant and they'll "go and get it."  Unsurprisingly there's a section for restauranteurs to list themselves and to advertise.